Ibex

Of the goats in the region, ibex (Capra ibex) are the most distinctive and beautiful. Sporting a pair of fine curved, spiral horns measuring as much as 147 cm. (the largest on record), the large stocky ibex normally move in herds of 10-16.They prefer the black precipitous rocks and cliffs and consequently roam much higher than the smaller wild goats, descending, however, in winter to lower altitudes to feed and shelter. The Wildlife Department of J&K estimate that around 250 ibex exist in Kanji Nala.

Inhabiting the steppes of this Tibetan plateau are too small creatures not generally associated with high altitudes, the Tibetan gazelle (Procapra picticaudata) and the chiru (Pantholops hodgsoni). The former, sighted very rarely on the eastern fringe of Ladakh, sport horns measuring 36 cm. and are generally seen in herds of 5-10. The later also called Tibetan antelopes, are strange little animals with beautiful horns measuring up to 69 cm. Chiru inhabit the Aksai Chin and Tibetan plateau, usually above 5,000 meters. In summer the herds migrate to the Dopsang Planes and Chang Chenmo valley. These delicate animals are often poached for their wool from which the famous shahtooshi shawls are made. Also found in western Ladakh are the much persecuted musk deer and kiangs- the handsome , sleek, rust and white colored wild asses, whose estimated population is around 1,500.

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Predators
(Snow leopard, Brown bear, Wolf, Lynx)

As is invariably the case everywhere, predators tend to be fewer, both in number as well as diversity, than their prey. This applies even more strongly to the alpine region where the availability of food is so greatly reduced. The snow leopard, or ounce, is truly a predator of the heights, living nowhere else at all. Perhaps the most magnificent animal of the mountains, it is cream colored on the chest and under parts, with a thick coat of ghostly gray marked with black rings or rosettes. This coloring forms a perfect camouflage against rocks and snow and allows the carnivore to hunt by surprise.

High in the mountains, this solitary animal hunts goats, ibex, blue sheep and shapu by following them up and down the slopes in their seasonal migration. During the winter, snow leopards stalk the lower mountains, often feeding on domestic stock. Observations seem to indicate that this animal hunts in the early morning and late afternoons. Despite the heavy toll taken by poachers, the population of the snow leopard in Ladakh is estimated to be roughly 200. With almost 40-50 skins smuggled out of Ladakh in the 1950's, 30-40 in the 1960's and 10-15 still being slipped out, the main enemy of this animal is, undoubtedly, man. Two other carnivores inhabiting this mountain home for the great bears. The medium-sized Himalayan black bear (Selenarctos thlbetanus), a forest dweller, is found up to heights of 4,500 meters in the summer. Like most bears it feeds on practically anything ranging from fruit and ripe corn to sheep, goats, deer and even termites. Its usual home is in dug-out hollows or caves. Further up the mountain lives the more adaptive brown bear(Ursus arctos) which has a population of around 200(of which approximately 20 are found in the Kargil area- the rest in the Zanskar valley). Three or four pairs of black bears have also been spotted here during the months of July and August when fruits like apricots and apples ripen.

The wolf population in Ladakh is likely to be around 300 and consists of two basic varieties. The northern race is light fawn and brown whereas the southern is invariably darker. These wolves, probably the most hated predators in Ladakh, hunt in pairs and

move over vast territories. It is observed one particular regularly moving across a narrow valley at dusk. The red fox exists in larger numbers but many are, unfortunately trapped for fur. From western Ladakh alone, about skins are possibly smuggled out every year. The stone marten, a pretty, alert and active animal is also hunted for its fur; again about 400 skins are smuggled out annually.

Also found in the remote region at a height of 4,400 meters is an attractive isabelline cat, the lynx or eeh as it is locally called. Lynx are fawn and white in the winter and slightly darker in the summer. They may sometimes be mistaken for wolves as their ear tufts stand out prominently. The tail is short and dark. Marmots, snowcocks and hares constitute t he lynx's normal diet.

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Avifauna

Apart from the wild animals, almost 169 varieties of birds have been identified in Ladakh. These birds too, like the animals, make the best use of whatever shelter they can find. However, because of Ladakh's inhospitable climate, very few are permanent residents. The Himalayan and Tibetan snowcocks-large majestic birds much hunted for their meat, and partridges breed at a height about 5,000 meters. The rest are visitors, moving down to the foothills in autumn in an annual ritual of altitudinal migration. Other birds move still further, horizontally following ancient routes of global migration.

The highest realm belongs to the birds of prey and carrion eaters. These include choughs, griffon vultures, ravens and lammergeiers(bearded vultures), which follow man and animal wherever they roam. Choughs and ravens have been seen as high as 6,150 meters along with the lammergeiers, which have a spectacular three meters wingspan, which enables them to glide on high powerful upcurrents. Lammergeiers are never found far from mountains and locals awed by their size falsely believe them to be capable of carrying away young lambs.

Just before the snowline in the alpine pastures insects are numerous and a large number of seasonal birds cans regularly be seen feasting on this abundant food source. The barheaded goose breeds in Ladakh in large numbers. In fact, the largest breeding colony within Indian limits exists on the north and south banks of the Tso Morari lake. Ladakh is one of the few places where the Mongolian plover can be seen. It nests and brings up its young in the month of July. This bird's 'distraction display' is a fascinating event to watch. The male pretends to be wounded and, wings dangling, drags himself along the ground to draw the predator's attention. Meanwhile, the female plover quickly guides its young away from danger. Several other birds like the Tibetan sandgrouse- a beautiful fawn and cream-colored bird, the Siberian ruby throat or ogla mamber, meaning throat in flames, the brownheaded gull which is one of the earliest of the of the summer visitors, wall creepers, wheelers and red starts also visit Ladakh in great flocks. By far the most majestic as also the most endangered species in Ladakh, is the black necked crane- a large handsome bird with a black neck and patch of red on its beak. They arrive in the second half of April or early May and build their nests in the middle of marshes. After approximately three weeks they lay two eggs within an interval of 12-24 hours. Both eggs are incubated after 18-24 days. Invariably, however, one chick dies. By late October or early November the cranes, with their surviving chicks, migrate to eastern Tibet or South China. During certain years, however, when the snowfall is light, the marshes remain dry and food for the cranes becomes inadequate. Then they lay their eggs in dry areas, which are easily approached by predators. The need for a water management plan for preferred nesting areas is acute. Meanwhile the army has been posting guards near these nesting sites to ensure that eggs are not carried away by predators or egg collectors who lift the eggs to sell them to tourists! Once the chicks grow large enough to fend for themselves, the guards are pulled back.

This deceptively calm Arctic desert is a world apart. Here breed some of the most resilient and beautiful species known to mankind. The stupendous, jagged mountains, glacier-born torrents, cruel cliffs and the vast wilderness of rock and sand inspired awe in the hearts of man and gave rise to the Bon religion which was based on a reverence for nature. Ladakh was once the home of animism, and trances, demons and spirits, some of the ancient rituals of the Bon religion, have actually been incorporated into the Buddhism being practiced locally today.

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